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Post by mikey100 on Feb 20, 2009 20:48:07 GMT 10
Sean, I think for the moment I will stick with what I have. The solution would be to simply reverse the servo....but, I looked under a flap cover and the servo was epoxied in- no shrink wrap or covering and I cant see a way of getting it out to do the 'servo reversing solder' without ripping a hole in the wing. NOT GOOD.
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Post by thevon on Feb 20, 2009 21:35:49 GMT 10
Nah, Mike you'd be able to break the epoxy bond if you gave it a good hard wiggle. But the problem when you and I looked at it was that the control arm line is hard up against the outer edge of the servo well. So if you flip the servo it will then be in the wing cavity beside the servo well. I guess you could re-locate the control horn and drill a new exit for the rod etc, but buying Ken's radio would be smarter option I reckon! If you proceed to become a moldie addict, this issue will come up regularly.
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Post by mikey100 on Feb 20, 2009 21:53:38 GMT 10
Andrew, my ideal was to get the servo out, open it up, change the 2 wires on the pot and motor, put it back together, and put it back in the wing in exactly the same position. Voila! But seriously, it looks glued in good n proper. Have pm'ed Ken, but will have to get a 7ch rx as the 6ch one I have wont do....or will it?
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Post by thevon on Feb 20, 2009 22:25:51 GMT 10
Mike, Yes, you'd need a 7 channel Rx. The C@ckpit SX uses channels 6 and 7 for flaps.
With getting the servo out, one tip is that epoxy melts pretty easily so if you can get a bit of tin, cut and bend it such that you can slip part of it between the wing skin and servo - then grip it with some vice grips and tentatively heat in flame and try to slip it in to melt the bond. Keep increasing the heat till it's working - you have to keep reheating it. Once you've got into it a bit, grip the servo arm with pliers and wiggle hard. Don't make your "knife" red hot or you'll melt the servo. And don't try using a heat gun!
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Post by mikey100 on Feb 21, 2009 6:16:12 GMT 10
Great info Andrew. But as the glass skin on the wing is epoxy, with epoxy glueing the servo directly to it, I suppose I will have to be EXTRA careful. I did try reversing an old servo by changing the pot and motor wires but both were dircclly soldered to the board so I decided not. Am not an electronics expert, but would love to know how the reversing lead works!
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Post by jirvin4505 on Feb 21, 2009 12:30:27 GMT 10
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Post by mikey100 on Feb 22, 2009 7:51:53 GMT 10
Thanks Geoff. '15 yrs old needing service and programming in German' may put it out of my transmitter comfort zone. Will wait and speak to Ken. I chickened out yesterday and changed the setup I have to do away with the reversing y-lead...just didnt trust it. Have put ailerons on a y-lead (so no differential now), Mixed throttle/spare for flaps, mixed flaps/down elevator. No aileron/rudder mix now (only 2 mixes on dx6i) This will do for now. Had a couple of test throws and am ready to throw it off a cliff when I get the right conditions.
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Post by mikey100 on Mar 1, 2009 6:58:55 GMT 10
After lots of playing around with the dx6i, I have solved my problem by going back to my original plan of mixing throttle/gear.Now I have... *flaps on throttle stick. Can use as undercamber then down- elev compensation coming in from the half downflap position. * ailerons with differential. *Flap-switch giving up-ailerons (CROW when combined with flaps) and down elevator. ...plus all the duel rates, expo. etc. I know this is less than ideal, but will give me a way of slowing the plane down. Next step....buying a 2nd hand JR DSX9...anyone want to sell me one?
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Post by thevon on Mar 1, 2009 9:17:19 GMT 10
Mike, the elevator comp needs to be the other way round. As you drop the flaps the first part will give the most lift and balloon the plane up into a stall. That's where you need the down-elevator comp. Once the flaps are past about the 30 degree point there's no increase in lift - just more drag.
But of course it won't matter if you just bang the throttle stick down to full flap when you use them. Don't try doing it progressively.
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Post by mikey100 on Mar 1, 2009 10:00:41 GMT 10
Thanks Andrew . Was going to use the first few mills of flap as undercamber, then bang it down from there.
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