Post by thevon on Aug 11, 2007 7:54:44 GMT 10
Well guys, the results of my latest experiment were very convincing! Suffice to say, there's no way I'll ever put on spackle WITHOUT PU mixed with it!
I have been cutting squares from old EPP beds, and noticed that when a piece is spackled on one side only the spackle prevents any compression of the surface. Ie, if it's spackled one side and you bend it so the spackled side is concave, the unspackled side will stretch rather than the spackled side compressing. (but with an untreated piece it compresses and stretches more equally both sides) It's sort of like coating it with a very thin balsa layer. But the problem is that if you bend it the other way and stretch it the spackle cracks up.
One BIG finding is that if you goop the surface first, then spackle, you TOTALLY lose the rigidity benefit from the spackle!
So the rigidity is good, but my concern is that it's a weak layer and no matter how good you make the other layers, a rip force will tear the spackle off. Or when you crunch a wingtip, the spackle turns to white dust. But I think the rigidity benefit is too good to ignore!
A clue led me to wonder if mixing spackle with PU glue was possible, so I got an experiment going with 4 squares of EPP spackled both sides and spatula'ed smooth; the 4 treatments ranging from plain spackle, to a bit of PU, then more; then more again! The maximum was probably about 25% PU I think.
It mixes together extremely well, easier to apply than plain spackle. It didn't seem to foam at all. When dry it sands easily.
Today I sanded them and did 3 tests:
1) compared the rigidity (subjective hand-flex test!)
2)the "ripoff test" - spray gluing , sticking a bit of strapping tape on, rubbing it in hard, and ripping it off;
3) and the "crush test!"- crunch it up and see what the surface looks like.
The main points:
Stiffness was a bit better for the PU, but not hugely better. Plain spackle is pretty stiff, its main downfall is that it crushes up when damaged. The PU plasticises it and holds it together.
But when you flex it, it doesn't crack up on the surface.
The PU spackle coat doesn't powder up when you crush the surface.
When tape ripped off, this is where you can see an obvious difference and a big benefit. For the PU mix the tape ripped off leaving very little damage to the surface whereas plain spackle lifts out and lifts out bits of EPP.
No time now, I'll send some photos later in the week - very convincing!
I have been cutting squares from old EPP beds, and noticed that when a piece is spackled on one side only the spackle prevents any compression of the surface. Ie, if it's spackled one side and you bend it so the spackled side is concave, the unspackled side will stretch rather than the spackled side compressing. (but with an untreated piece it compresses and stretches more equally both sides) It's sort of like coating it with a very thin balsa layer. But the problem is that if you bend it the other way and stretch it the spackle cracks up.
One BIG finding is that if you goop the surface first, then spackle, you TOTALLY lose the rigidity benefit from the spackle!
So the rigidity is good, but my concern is that it's a weak layer and no matter how good you make the other layers, a rip force will tear the spackle off. Or when you crunch a wingtip, the spackle turns to white dust. But I think the rigidity benefit is too good to ignore!
A clue led me to wonder if mixing spackle with PU glue was possible, so I got an experiment going with 4 squares of EPP spackled both sides and spatula'ed smooth; the 4 treatments ranging from plain spackle, to a bit of PU, then more; then more again! The maximum was probably about 25% PU I think.
It mixes together extremely well, easier to apply than plain spackle. It didn't seem to foam at all. When dry it sands easily.
Today I sanded them and did 3 tests:
1) compared the rigidity (subjective hand-flex test!)
2)the "ripoff test" - spray gluing , sticking a bit of strapping tape on, rubbing it in hard, and ripping it off;
3) and the "crush test!"- crunch it up and see what the surface looks like.
The main points:
Stiffness was a bit better for the PU, but not hugely better. Plain spackle is pretty stiff, its main downfall is that it crushes up when damaged. The PU plasticises it and holds it together.
But when you flex it, it doesn't crack up on the surface.
The PU spackle coat doesn't powder up when you crush the surface.
When tape ripped off, this is where you can see an obvious difference and a big benefit. For the PU mix the tape ripped off leaving very little damage to the surface whereas plain spackle lifts out and lifts out bits of EPP.
No time now, I'll send some photos later in the week - very convincing!