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Post by bananaman on Dec 9, 2009 13:19:46 GMT 10
VERY, VERY Nice job Shane!!
Are you part Ukranian F1A modeller?? They also exhibit incredible workmanship.
Just keep that black stuff covered on a hot day.
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Post by ezza on Dec 9, 2009 15:55:10 GMT 10
Wow Shane. Got to be happy with that!?! Amazing.
Eric
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Post by mikey100 on Dec 9, 2009 19:59:17 GMT 10
W O W ! Top job Shane. When you gunna build me one?
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Post by shane on Dec 9, 2009 23:47:31 GMT 10
Thanks for all the good feedback ,inspires me to make it to the top of this mountain of a build. Wing is 950 grams with wiring Sean and the lay-up was only bag dryed for 1 minute ,as for the shrink back i left the mylars on for 48 hours this mite of helped tho the 3600 resin is very good for this. Brian ,thanks for the warning on the carbon ,do you think i should give the wing a sun bake in the foam beds for for possible warping when un supported in the sun ?
Shane.
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Post by nick on Dec 10, 2009 6:48:25 GMT 10
hi Shane
If i ever need a new kitchen you will be on top of my list, you are such a quality builder, looking forward to seeing her fly, are you going to Armidale?
regards nick
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Post by bananaman on Dec 10, 2009 9:03:16 GMT 10
Jeff and Larrikin probably know the properties of 3600 better than I but in general epoxy resins (unless autoclaved) will reach a "certain" temperature (around 70+deg for aerospace resins I'm familar with) and go soft. When the resin cools it will harden up and what ever shape it is will be the "new" shape. To "reshape" you will need to exceed the temp it reached last time to make it soften. You can do this without the resin being ruined up until it reaches its failure temp which I recall is around 120degC, but it really depends on the resin. At the F3B practise we measured an air temp of approx 38DecC and a yellow wing surface was measured at approx 54Deg C. The red writing on Eric's Skorpian was 54.7 (I think). Black will obviously get hotter. So I guess getting the wing hot as you safely can and controlling its shape would be a safe way to go. I've had a few mouldies and my own bagged wings that looked mirror smooth out of the box/bag but after a hot day the weave has shown through. Leaving plastic models (any resin/fabric type) in cars with the windows on a hot day up is not a good idea. I put a fuselage in my car one day and pulled out a white banana later on I would defer to Jeff, Larrikin and Evan though on how to manage it best though.
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Post by shane on Dec 10, 2009 22:21:26 GMT 10
Thanks for reply Brian,now i know the origin of Bananaman ;D To Nick and others i am going to Armidale ,will be flying jeffs pike (thanks Jeff ) the Supra will not be ready. I am looking for a bed at Pembroke if anyone knows of one.
Thanks ,Shane.
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Post by wolfgangw on Dec 19, 2009 18:02:14 GMT 10
I am starting with bagged wings so my questions do not deal out any critisism. I realized that there is a thin layer of blue foam between spar and skin. I thought that a good bond between spar and skin is essentional for torsional stiffness. In this way isn’t there also a little loss of spar height and therefor stability? To be compensated by a stronger spar layup (weight balance) On the other hand, this is a very easy way of filling the void and aligning spar and core. Isn’t a speckle with raisin and microballons better? For my glider I will use coated copper wires from a transformer. That will save the weight of the insulation. Two thicker wires for powersupply and a thinner one for the pulse. I like the connection with a tiny PC-board, I'm doing it in the same way Wolfgang
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Post by skyboyken on Dec 19, 2009 19:46:29 GMT 10
Hi Wolfgangw,
the people who can answer you best are probably shane, jirvin and sean.
Can you tell us what you're building (bagging)?
"I realized that there is a thin layer of blue foam between spar and skin" - Really? That's very unusual! If you look at the pictures earlier in this thread as an example, you can see there is no foam over the spar cap in Shane's Supra. The spar cap is usually bonded directly to the skin with a mixture of epoxy and filler (called bog), or if you are VERY good (like Shane) you can shape the spar cap accurately and bag the skin directly to it.
Your idea of using coated wire is not new, and works well. Not sure how much weight you'll save though. I'd be interested if you can tell us how long your wiring is and how much it weighs.
Go Great!
Ken.
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Post by shane on Dec 23, 2009 22:41:30 GMT 10
Wolfgang . There is a very small layer of foam over the spar caps ,i have no idea if this will make it any weaker this is a experiment . The spar has been made stronger as well for a stiffer wing. I like to try different ways to build and design things, please look at this build (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=769579) for a new type of spar construction ,this plane is sill flying. Good luck with your build .
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Post by shane on Dec 29, 2009 1:02:38 GMT 10
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Post by vh7377 on Dec 30, 2009 15:41:02 GMT 10
Shane, Great job. Look forward to seeing it in the flesh. Happy new year Hutton
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Post by wolfgangw on Jan 2, 2010 2:26:11 GMT 10
Hello Shane amazing job, I'm afraid I'll never ever reach your skills. It is off topic I know but here is the result: I had a 0.65mm coated copper wire at hand. This wire is AWG 23. Its resistance is 0.0668 ohm /m. Its weight is 2.32g/m. Tolerated load current 4.7A. So for a ~4m glider with servos for aillerons at 1.50m and flaps at 50cm 3x1.5m +0.5m=5m is necessary with a junction at 0.5m for power supply of the flap servo. Total weight =12g/wing or 24g for both. When I made the connections for my ASH26 I realized that the cabels are pretty heavy, unfortionally I didn’t weigh them so I can’t compare. Perhaps sombody knows the weight of extension cabels for servos.
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Post by shane on Feb 14, 2010 23:32:22 GMT 10
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Post by jirvin4505 on Feb 15, 2010 0:10:36 GMT 10
Great set of pictures Shane.
The canopy mold with the poraver mix looks great.
All the best for the pod layup ... watching and waiting
cheers jeff
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